Holy cow, has it really been since May since I've posted? Is anybody even still out there reading? If so, this blog's for you...
A friend recently called to tell me about the latest low quality import from China - black truffles. It was only a matter of time before some developing country caught on to our desire to eat hoity toity fungus and decided to capitalize on it. Seeing as how I once lived in China and am now a truffle farmer myself, I thought I'd investigate the burgeoning import market.
First, I googled "Chinese black truffles" and found www.chinesetruffle.com. If you go check them out, you will find that they are not representing the chinese black truffle as the same species as the french black truffle (tuber melanosporum) or any of the other high end truffles. Nope, these have different botanical names, Tuber Sinensis and Tuber Himalayensis, and are a product of China, rather than a European product being introduced in China. This is important to note when you are shopping for them and getting your undergarments in a knot at the thought of the Chinese capitalizing on what we Americans are trying to capitalize on first. Other truffle scientists claim the truffles being cultivated in China are actually Indian truffles known as tuber indicum, that some have compared to a weed or blight due to its resiliency and quick propagation.
This page explains the descriptions of Chinese truffles, going so far as to compare the Tuber Himalayensis with the coveted tuber melanosporum. The pictures look the same to me so I'm sure I could be fooled easily. Here is the pricing page info. At about $10 per kilogram they seem quite reasonable.
Even Time Magazine, The Wall Street Journal and NPR have recently covered the Chinese Truffle Trifle. Click on Truffle Kerfuffle to read Time's article, which is recommended because it covers both the Chinese and French perspectives and has some funny quotes, like
"Labor is very cheap here," Wu says. "In France they use pigs and dogs to find truffles. We can use humans."Sucks to be human when your labor is less valued than that of a dog or pig...Then again, when I was in China they ate dogs.
The WSJ's article is shorter and has a couple of quotes from the same Mr. Wu of the Kunming Rare Truffle Company.
NPR has more in-depth coverage in its two-part article by Louisa Lim. She interviewed Mr. Wu and took the picture above. The article also discusses foie gras and force-feeding geese, something I'd never contemplated before today.
If you'd like to take a chance and order a Chinese truffle or two, just for your own amusement and tasting pleasure, here's a link to Alibaba.com's Chinese Truffle page. I'm not kidding, you can buy a chinese truffle from Alibaba. Sounds like a great Christmas gift idea to me...
